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Sapphire-Fancy Coloured

Chemistry

Mohs Scale Hardness

Al2O3

9

Refractive Index

1.762 to 1.770

Specific Gravity

4.00

Colour

All colour but red and blue

Distinguishing Features

  • Fancy sapphires create a rainbow of options for people who like romance.

  • Padparadscha, a rare and valuable pinkish-orange sapphire named in the Sinhalese for lotus blossom.

  • Corundum can show a phenomenon called asterism and colour change.


The Most Desirable Picks

The major fancy sapphire categories are Padparadscha, pink and purple, orange and yellow, green, and colourless and black.


Padparadscha:

Padparadscha means 'Lotus flower' in Sri Lanka's language, Sinhalese. They typically have the highest per-carat value of all fancy sapphires. Generally, the colour should be an intensely saturated combination of pink and orange hues without any noticeable brown colouring. However, the term once described colours from yellowish orange to orangy red, with a range of tones and degrees of saturation.

Natural Padparadscha Sapphires

Sri Lanka has been a traditional source, Africa and Vietnam are now recognized as sources of beautiful padparadscha, too.


Pink and Purple:

There has been a lack of universal agreement over the borderline between pink sapphire. Today, the borderlines between ruby, pink and purple sapphires are generally accepted as follows:

  • Ruby: Hue colour can be orangy-red through strongly purplish red, but the dominant colour must be red. The tone level ranges from medium to dark (5-8 on the GIA tone level scale).

  • Pink sapphire: Hue level range from red to purple in light tones (2-4 on the GIA tone level scale) with weak to vivid saturation.

  • Purple Sapphire: Hue level range from reddish purple to violetish purple in medium to dark tones with weak to vivid saturation.

Fine pink sapphire regularly command top prices, sometimes comparable to padparadschas. Highly saturated pinks are rare, prized hues, especially those from Sri Lanka, Myanmar and Madagascar.

Close-up of a pink sapphire gemstone

The market for purple sapphire is less strong. The price difference gives an incentive to heat treat purple sapphire to achieve a more desirable pink or red hue.


Yellow and Orange:

The finest yellow sapphire is yellow to orangy yellow, with medium tone and vivid saturation. More generally, yellow sapphires range from greenish-yellow to orangy yellow in light tones and all degrees of saturation.


The finest orange sapphires are strongly red-orange with medium tone and vivid saturation. A broader definition of orange sapphire includes yellowish-orange to reddish-orange in light to dark tones and all degrees of saturation.

Uncut yellow sapphires

The yellow and orange sapphires market is less stable as consumer preference changes over time.


Green:

Green sapphires range from blue-green through yellow-green, with light to a very dark tone and usually low saturation. This variety is not very marketable, and the supply is abundant.


Colourless and Black:

The purest form of corundum is considered to be either colourless or white. It used to be used as one type of natural diamond substitute. Black or very dark blue sapphires are marketed as black sapphire, and the market is comparatively small.


Phenomenal Corundum:

Colour-Change Sapphires:

The typical colour change is from blue or violet in daylight to violetish purple to strongly reddish-purple in incandescent light. The trace element vanadium causes the colour change. Following the body colour, the strength of the colour change is the second most important quality factor affecting its value.


Star Corundum:

When corundum rough contains enough silk (tiny, needle-like inclusion oriented in several specific directions), it can be fashioned as a cabochon and show the star.


The best and most expensive star corundum is semi-transparent, with enough silk to create a well-defined star. The finest star is distinct, centred on top of the stone and visible from a reasonable distance, about arm's length. The star quality should be identical in any direction. The rays are uniform in strength and reach from girdle to girdle. They should be straight and contrast strongly against the background body colour, showing smooth movement across the surface with no dead spots.

The cabochon must have an appealing face-up appearance, with the star properly centred when the gem is upright. The cabochon's outline should be symmetrical, with fair proportions (the dome is about two-thirds of the stone's width, except black star sapphire, which may have a lower dome) and a good polish.


In general, the most-prized colours are red and blue.

The Star of Asia, which weighs 330ct, is one of the world’s finest star sapphires. Photo by Chip Clark, courtesy Smithsonian Institution NMNH.

Clarity:

Sapphires with extremely high clarity are rare and very valuable. They are usually expected to have some inclusions. Price can drop if the inclusions threaten the stone’s durability.


Cut:

Cutters evaluate factors like colour zoning, pleochroism, and the lightness or darkness of a stone, to achieve the best overall colour, maintain the best proportions, and retain the most weight possible.


Carat weight:

Sapphires can range in size anywhere from a few points to hundreds of carats; the price per carat increases more dramatically with larger stones and higher quality.

Origins


Fancy and phenonmenal sapphires can come from almost any major corundum source.


Sri Lanka:

Sri Lanka produces what some consider the broadest range of fancy sapphire colours globally. It has been a premier source of corundum for centuries. Known as an "island of gems", most gemstones are recovered from alluvial deposits in riverbeds, streams and even rice paddies.


Sri Lanka is the most valued source of padparadscha sapphires. Its production of pink and purple sapphires is among the finest on the market and is considered the most important source of star rubies and sapphires.


Africa:

East Africa showed great potential in corundum production in the last a few decades. The stretch from Mozambique through Tanzania, Kenya and Ethiopia to Sudan is one of the richest gem-bearing regions in the world.


Tanzania has some of Africa's most productive deposits. Virtually every has recovered there. Madagascar is a major source of high-quality pink sapphire. Mozambique is the world's leading ruby supplier and a significant contributor to pink sapphire.


Myanmar:

Myanmar is a world-renowned ruby and pink sapphire source, as well as other fancy colour sapphires.


Vietnam:

In addition to ruby Production, Vietnam also produces fine quality pink sapphires and some purples as well.


Thailand:

Thailand is one of the major sources of black star sapphire. It produces yellow and green fancy colours, blue and black star sapphires.

Montana:

The colours of fancy sapphires discovered in Montana tend to be pale. Light-toned yellows and oranges, pinks and greens have also been found. Yogo Gulch in Montana is famous for small, fine colour blue sapphires without heat treatment. Sometimes, two times heating is applied to turn some corundum blue.


Other Sources:

Australia, Central Asia and Greenland are producers of fancy sapphires in the global market

Significant Pieces

Princess Eugenie of York, the granddaughter of Her Majesty the Queen and daughter of Prince Andrew, Duke of York, and Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York, got engaged to a wine merchant, Jack Brooksbank, in January 2018. Her ring, which is not dissimilar to the ring Prince Andrew presented to Sarah Ferguson in 1986, features an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire surrounded by a halo of diamonds. This is set on a yellow gold band with two further tapered diamonds at the shoulders.


It also looks a lot like the ring her father, Prince Andrew, gave to her mother, Sarah Ferguson, in 1986.




Formation

Different amounts and combinations of the trace elements iron, titanium and chromium cause most fancy sapphire colours.

Stability

Care and Cleaning

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